Author Archives: Joel Haber

Israel’s Craft Brewery Explosion – where and what to drink?

Dancing Camel Brewery

Credited as the first Israeli craft beer, Dancing Camel started selling their uniquely Israeli brews in 2006. American-Israeli immigrant David Cohen opened his Tel Aviv based brew pub in a less trafficked area (located at HaTaasiya 12), building a steady following with beers flavored using locally significant ingredients, such as rosemary and etrog (the citron fruit used ritually on the Jewish holiday of Sukkot).

Cohen views this as the marriage of his Zionist dream and his craft brewing passion. “I’m trying to define a uniquely Israeli beer,” he says. “I don’t just want to brew another German Lager, like Goldstar, or an English Ale or another Sam Adams. I brew beers that are identifiably Israeli because of the ingredients we use.”

Although at times the obscure flavor agents might seem a bit gimmicky, when they work they really work well. Cohen’s prescience allowed him to be the first craft beer to penetrate many bars and restaurants throughout the country, and his brewery’s growing popularity led him to open a new bar in Tel Aviv’s hip Florentine district (Vital 10).

To pay tribute to this Israeli beer pioneer, contact the brewery via its website to arrange a tour. Tours require a minimum of 10 people, and last about 1 hour, costing 70 NIS per person. Or just stop by either Tel Aviv location for a visit (brewpub open from 5 PM until last customer, every night except Fri, Florentine open 7 days a week from 7 PM), or dance with an alcoholic Camel at a local bar or liquor store.

Taybeh Brewing Company

Even earlier than Dancing Camel, Taybeh Beer was started in the Palestinian Christian town of the same name in 1995. Their growing popularity, particularly among the liberal Israeli population, has turned them into one of the most successful Palestinian-run businesses.

Since 2005, the brewery has run an annual Oktoberfest celebration, drawing large crowds of both local visitors and tourists. Their various beers are solid and refreshing. While perhaps not distinctive, they certainly make one of the most consistent and best quality beers available in Israel.

Nowadays, their 4 main varieties of beer have become relatively easy to find and purchase in stores and bars throughout Israel.

Breweries of the Shefelah

Nestled in the so-called “lowlands” region (Shefelah in Hebrew) between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, there are a few breweries in and around the city of Beit Shemesh. In the industrial zone of Beit Shemesh itself, Shapira Brewery sits in an old warehouse space. One of the better-known Israeli craft beers, Shapira is a family business that has been operating since August 2011.

Co-founder Itzik Shapiro told me that his brothers Avi and Daniel are also heavily involved in the business, and their sister Tamar now runs tastings at the brewery. Visits at the brewery are encouraged, and typically require a minimum of 15 people. But if you want to arrange a visit for a smaller group, Itzik says you can always call and try your luck. If they’re around and available, they are happy to welcome you! To arrange a visit, call 02-561-2622.

Itzik says that what makes Shapira beers different is the personal touch. Most Shapira Beer fans have met at least one of the Shapira family members at one time or another, in a bar, at an event or at the brewery. Itzik also points to the freshness (the beer I had while speaking to him at a bar had been bottled a mere one-and-a-half weeks earlier) and drinkability of Shapira’s beers. He maintains that Shapira is “not one of the crazy breweries aimed at beer geeks” (though he does identify himself as a “part-time beer geek”). Consistency and accessibility are more important traits for them, though they do stretch a bit with their seasonal beers. Their winter beer, for example, is flavored with wood chips that have been soaked in Jack Daniels.

Next door to Shapira is Buster’s Cider. Though not strictly belonging in an article on craft beers, many beer drinkers also love a good hard apple cider, particularly on a hot summer’s day. Though not the only cider producers in Israel, they are probably the best known. Additionally, they produce what I believe is Israel’s only hard lemonade, and have recently launched a line of small batch liquors called Pioneer Spirits. Buster’s welcomes visitors on Tuesdays and Fridays, between 9:00 AM and 2:00 PM.

Only about a 10-minute drive south from Shapira and Buster’s is the Srigim Brewery (Hebrew website only), located in the small town of the same name (also known as Li-On). Srigim makes seven beers in two different lines: Emek HaElah and Ronen. Amongst the beers in the Emek HaElah line is their Belgian Tripel, perhaps my favorite Israeli-made beer. Srigim’s visitors center is open to the public on Fridays and Saturdays from 11:00 AM until 5:00 PM, and to groups of 10 or more with advanced reservation (052-622-7679 or 052-593-8287).

Breweries of the North

A trip to the northern part of Israel has long been associated with the amazing wineries that abound there. But some of Israel’s best craft breweries can also be found in that region.

Located in Katzrin, in the Golan Heights, the Golan Brewery is one of Israel’s larger microbreweries. Its line of Bazelet beers is also amongst the easiest to find in stores. Following a collaboration agreement with the Golan Heights Winery in 2009, production and distribution of the beer increased dramatically, to the point that they now produce upwards of 130,000 liters per year.

Their large brewpub/restaurant is conveniently located in Katzrin’s industrial park, right next to their investor winery, as well as an olive oil production facility, providing an opportunity for a lovely half day of Golan culinary exploration.

Meanwhile, in the Galil/Galilee region, Galil Brewery (Hebrew-only website) is your best option. Located on Kibbutz Moran (just off the main east-west road running from Akko/Acre, past Karmiel and on towards the area of Safed/Tzefat), Galil Brewery makes some of the best rated, if under-recognized beers in the country. In fact, Lior Weiss of Tel Aviv’s Beer Bazaar store, mentions Galil as one of his favorite breweries in the country.

The small craft brewery also features a laidback brewpub that features their six main beers, open on Thursday, Friday and Saturday night. Their stated goal, however, is to build the beer culture in Israel, and thus they also feature beers from those who might be seen as their competitors. But this is not so odd, as everyone I spoke to for this post agreed, the craft brew industry here is more convivial than competitive, with the spirit of cooperation and friendship overriding all else.
Stores with Selection
While a visit to one of Israel’s new microbreweries may be the best experience for a suds-loving tourist, the best selection can be found at one of a few local stores or bars.

Hidden in Tel Aviv’s Carmel Market is the Beer Bazaar (1 Rambam St.), opened in 2013 by Lior Weiss and Yuval Reznikovich. The first store of its kind, Beer Bazaar offers over 100 labels of only Israeli-made craft beers. Weiss, who also calls himself “a hardcore beer geek,” had long been involved in the Israeli home-brewing community. When they decided to open a “day bar” and bottle shop inside the market, everyone told them they were crazy and would go bankrupt. “But we’re both stubborn, and decided to do it anyways,” says Weiss.

Though it took about 6 months to catch on, the store is now thriving, and they have opened a second location that is more of an actual bar (and is open at night), right around the corner (36 Yishkon St., corner of Yom Tov St.). Some specials at the Beer Bazaar include Six Mix, a specially priced customized six pack of mixed bottles, and a flight of beer tastings from the seven taps in the new bar location.

If you’re trying to scratch your craft brew itch while in Jerusalem, your best bet is to stop by HaMesameach liquor store (64 Agrippas St.), near Machane Yehuda Market. Though not purely a beer store, and certainly with a smaller selection of Israeli craft beers than at the Beer Bazaar, they still offer a wide selection, with an entire long shelf dedicated to them.

Finally, as of this writing, there is a brand new store that has opened in Tel Aviv, competing with the Beer Bazaar. In the new Sarona Market, the Beer Market also offers 100+ Israeli craft brews, surrounded by all sorts of other culinary delights.

Stores like these are the only place for most consumers to find the hidden gems among Israeli craft beers. One such unknown star is HaDubim (Hebrew-only site), a fave of both Cohen and Shapiro. HaDubim’s 15 labels are available at both Beer Bazaar and Beer Market. To find it in Jerusalem, you must visit the tiny Kos Shel Bracha store in the Katamon neighborhood, at 16 HaLamed Hei St.

NOTE: As of press time, it has just been announced that the Beer Bazaar will be opening a new branch in Jerusalem’s Machane Yehuda market, sometime in October, 2015!
What the Future Holds
These are just a few of the better Israeli craft beers, and it would be worthwhile to at least mention a few of the other good ones. Jem’s Beer Factory in Kfar Saba is well known, both for its beers and its brewpub, and they have recently opened a second location in Ra’anana. Alexander Brewery (another Shapiro favorite) is one of the highest rated and award-winning beers in Israel, and can be found not far from Netanya. Also, gaining popularity is a relative newcomer from Jerusalem, named Herzl Beer, and how much more Israeli can you get than a beer named for the founder of Modern Zionism?

But what does the future hold for this small but vibrant industry? While no one I spoke to had any brilliant answers for why the industry suddenly exploded when it did, they all agree that we are at a bit of a turning point. After the initial boom, we have reached a degree of parity, in which the number of professional breweries has leveled off, and some are either closing, shifting to become solely brewpubs, or are renting space from license breweries and closing their own facilities.

One of the reasons for this came as a result of the Israeli government’s decision in August 2012 to double the beer tax literally overnight. The tax is not gradual, and applies equally to the massive industrial brewers and to tiny craft brewers. Weiss claims this is unique in the world, and it certainly took the wind out of the breweries’ proverbial sails. Even those that were able to remain afloat had little money left for marketing. Others closed and the cost for a new brewery to launch became prohibitive.

These trends will probably continue for at least a few more years, with few new entries into the market, and the existing breweries either reducing production and distribution to match the brewpub model, or increasing production. Israeli craft beer fans can only hope that with the growth of a few of these breweries, we will also see continued increase in the quality of the beer produced. While the industry has achieved a lot in a short span of time, it is still very young, and maturity should bring added sophistication as well.

Top 10 hidden pleasures of Tel Aviv- Part 2

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After exploring Tel Aviv’s diverse neighborhoods, markets, nature and art, via Part 1 of this TLV Top 10 list, this post will help you learn the top Tel Aviv spots in 5 more categories:

Tours in Tel Aviv

The best way to explore any new city while traveling is by hiring a local tour guide. And licensed guides in Israel are all top notch; as one myself, I would be remiss if I didn’t at least give a shout out to my peers! But there are also a number of great (albeit non-customized) regularly scheduled tours in Tel Aviv, for the more cost conscious traveler.

One of the best known is the White City Tour of International Style architecture, run by the Bauhaus Center store. UNESCO recognized Tel Aviv as a World Heritage Site due to its high concentration of buildings built using this famous architectural style. There is an English tour given every Friday at 10:00 AM, and other options are available from the store as well.

If you’re spending a bit longer in Israel, you might want to take a tour that will help you improve your Hebrew language skills. StreetWise Hebrew tours will help you learn the language and culture via street signs, graffiti, bumper stickers and the like. All of this while visiting different areas of Tel Aviv in a fun and relaxed atmosphere.

Tel Aviv Lifestyle

Shopping is as much a pastime for Tel Avivians as for most urbanites, and tourists love to explore the city’s shops and boutiques as much as its residents do. While there are plenty of great places to shop throughout the city’s streets, visitors may also want to take advantage of one of Tel Aviv’s lifestyle centers.

The international trend in recent years away from indoor shopping malls to more diversified outdoor mixed-use venues has not missed Israel. Tel Aviv has four such areas, wisely situated in different parts of the city and focusing on different target patrons. Each took a historic site that had fallen into disuse and transformed it into a vibrant new place for people to spend their time. The first three were the “Namal” (the old Tel Aviv port), the “Mitcham HaTachana” (the old train station complex) and the “Namal Yaffo” (the Jaffa port).

But the newest is also the best of the bunch. Located right in the center of the city, near the national military headquarters and the old school Azrieli Center mall, Sarona is a beautifully transformed lifestyle center in what was once a village populated by German Templers. This interesting group of Protestants came to Israel in the 1860s, and built seven different settlements. Sarona was their second in what is now called Tel Aviv.

The complex has a great mix of mid-range stores, restaurants and cafes, historical buildings and outdoor spaces for play, relaxation and art appreciation. Good signage throughout the complex reveals the site’s storied past, and tours and mini-museums further this. Finally, the lush lawns and pleasant landscaping make Sarona one of the most pleasant spots for a midday stroll in Tel Aviv.

Museums in Tel Aviv

Israel has been recognized as having the most museums per capita of any country in the world. So while Tel Aviv features the sizable Eretz Israel Museum and Beit Hatfutsot – The Museum of the Jewish People, the wise tourist will take advantage of some of the small, less-known museums scattered throughout the city.

For those interested in military history, the Palmach Museum tells the story of the elite commando unit that was instrumental to the efforts of the Jewish fighters before and during the War for Independence. Design enthusiasts will appreciate the tiny Bauhaus Museum (21 Bialik Street, 03-620-4664, no website), which focuses on furniture, lamps and other items designed by the famous German Bauhaus school, rather than the architecture that brought it its fame. Finally, two small museums in Tel Aviv are dedicated to the works of famous individual artists. The Rubin Museum and Nahum Gutman Museum of Art focus respectively on these particular artists, who both lived and worked in Tel Aviv.

The History of Tel Aviv

Though the city of Tel Aviv, unlike other cities in Israel, is only a little over 100 years old, it still manages to encompass a number of important historical sites. Some are significant to the history of the modern State of Israel, while the municipality also encompasses the small town of Jaffa, one of the world’s most ancient ports.

Old Jaffa is a great place to start. Since there have been only limited archaeological excavations here, the history that you experience in Jaffa is more connected with the stories of famous characters – from Jonah, Hercules and Andromeda to St. Peter and Napoleon – who are connected with this town. Along the way, you can visit the port area itself, a monumental church, a house associated with the story of St. Peter and a visitors’ center located beneath the central square of Old Jaffa.

Independence Hall is located on Rothschild Boulevard, inside the former home of Meir Dizengoff. It is in its central hall that the State of Israel was born on May 14, 1948. After the museum moved in 1971, the building was turned into a spot dedicated to the historic event that took place there. It is well worth a visit to experience the truly moving program the museum’s guides provide.

Rabin Square was renamed after it became the site of one of Israel’s most tragic episodes, the assassination of Prime Minister Yitzhak Rabin on November 4, 1995. Just off the square, on the side of the Tel Aviv Municipality Building, a monument marks the spot where the assassination took place.

For Reservations at Dan Hotels Tel Aviv click here

Food and Restaurants in Tel Aviv

Tel Aviv is clearly the culinary mecca of Israel, with the most cutting edge restaurants and forward-thinking chefs. So for serious foodies, there are more than enough options to try.

Dan Hotels of course is proud of its own refined culinary experience at Hayarkon 99, in the Dan Tel Aviv Hotel. But when you’ve finished your meal there, take advantage of all that Tel Aviv has to offer and explore its many other restaurants. This may seem like a cop-out answer for a “Top 10” list, but it would honestly be foolish of me to single out any one or two restaurants.

One good place to start researching the options is the TasteTLV website, which features many reviews of the top eateries. You must also be encouraged to not only frequent the upscale chef restaurants; to truly taste Tel Aviv, make sure you also visit some of the older yet still well-reviewed ethnic restaurants that dot the city’s streets.

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That’s it! Enjoy your stay, and most of all, be adventurous in exploring new sites, tastes and experiences!

Found Tel Aviv interesting? Check out Dan Panorama Hotel in Tel aviv – a walk from the beach

Top 10 hidden pleasures of Tel Aviv

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Many refer to Tel Aviv as Israel’s “City that Never Sleeps,” and as a Mediterranean beach city, Tel Aviv blends urban nightlife with stunning nature much in the same way that Barcelona, Dubrovnik or Nice do.

So what to do and see on your visit to Tel Aviv? Most people enjoy simply exploring the various neighborhoods of Tel Aviv, shopping or browsing in boutiques, eating in cafes and soaking up the sun-drenched local culture. Digging a little deeper, however, exposes some of the most important sites and activities that you need to explore to get a taste of all that Tel Aviv has to offer.

As a tour guide, here are my top 10 categories (in two posts) to focus your time in Tel Aviv:

Tel Aviv Neighborhoods

The modern city of Tel Aviv is only a drop over 100 years old, and has spread outwards from the old city of Jaffa in a patchwork of different neighborhoods. A walk through three of the earliest can give you a taste of the cross-section of groups that started the city.

Neve Zedek (“Oasis of Justice”) was built close to Jaffa, alongside the tracks of the Jerusalem-Tel Aviv railroad. Many famous artists and writers lived there in the early years, and it is currently undergoing a process of gentrification, with renovations and (at times) repurposing of many historic buildings.

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The area around Herzl St. and Rothschild Blvd. was once called Achuzat Bayit (“Homestead”). It was this neighborhood that literally grew into the municipality of Tel Aviv. Built as a planned neighborhood just east of Neve Zedek, a lottery was held on the empty sand dunes to determine which of the founders would get which plots of land. Though some of the original houses remain, the best place to learn about the early years is in the lobby of the Shalom Tower office building, on Herzl and Ahad Ha’am Streets. There you will find fascinating models and artistic renderings of the early years of Tel Aviv.

Kerem HaTeimanim (“The Yemenite Vineyard,” more commonly called the Yemenite Quarter) sits a bit north of the above two neighborhoods. Fewer buildings there have been renovated to date, and some of the residents are descendants of the original settlers. The many ethnic restaurants lend a more authentic feel to the narrow streets.

Markets in Tel Aviv

As with most cities in Israel (and throughout the Middle East, for that matter), Tel Aviv is well known for its “shuks” or outdoor markets. The most famous shuk in Tel Aviv is the Carmel Market, along with its adjoining twice-weekly Nahalat Binyamin crafts fair.

But two other markets in Tel Aviv stand out, one for its culinary offerings and the other for entertainment value alone.

Levinsky Market is more a collection of stores than the traditionally constructed Carmel Market, but its culinary offerings eclipse those of Carmel. Traditional ethnic foods, of both high quality and wide diversity, make Levinsky the shuk for true foodies visiting Tel Aviv.

Meanwhile, if you want to visit a market that is both bizarre and hilarious, you must visit the Shuk HaPishpishim (“Flea Market”). Located near the Jaffa Clock Tower, and surrounded by slowly gentrifying streets, hip cafes and bars, and antique shops that are almost as aged as their wares, this market is undoubtedly unique. Vendors sell collections of second-hand (or let’s be honest, probably fourth- or fifth-hand) goods of all kinds. But if you are an eagle-eyed shopper, you may come across an incredible “find” of a purchase. And if not, it will surely be a fun visit nonetheless.

Tel Aviv and the Outdoors

Tel Aviv is famous for its beaches, and of course any Tel Aviv stay is incomplete without a stroll along the promenade, or a relaxing few hours spent lying out in the sun. But there is more that one can do on the beach. Matkot is the peculiarly Israeli paddleball game that has no winner or loser. Volleyball is enthusiastically played on sandy courts, while water sports enthusiasts can enjoy the surfing and kayaking possibilities. And every Friday at sundown, a drum circle gathers to welcome the Sabbath in a uniquely Tel Avivian fashion. You’ll find it at the oddly-named “Jerusalem Beach,” towards the southern end of the city.

While a visit to the beach is the “obvious” choice for this section of the list, true Tel Avivians know that HaYarkon Park is the real gem for outdoor activities. Tel Aviv’s version of Central Park, Hayarkon Park’s namesake river flows slowly through the length of it. The park also features sports fields, paddle boats, bike paths, playgrounds, a rock garden, historic buildings, a climbing wall and so much more.

Tel Avivian Visual Arts

Tel Aviv’s art scene is Israel’s most vibrant. Visit the Tel Aviv Museum of Art to appreciate both its collection and the architecture of the building itself. Originally housed in the former home of Tel Aviv’s first mayor, Meir Dizengoff, the museum moved to its current home in 1971. It is best known for its Israeli and contemporary art collections.

If, however, you are looking to make an Israeli art purchase, you should visit some of the many galleries scattered throughout the city. A nice concentration of them can be found in the area bounded by Ben Gurion, Dizengoff, Gordon and HaYarkon streets.

Tel Avivian Performing Arts

There are many small to medium clubs all over the city, where you can catch up-and-coming Israeli musicians. Tel Aviv also boasts a wonderful opera (housed next door to the Tel Aviv Museum of Art), top notch contemporary dance at the Suzanne Dellal Center and Habima – the Israeli national theater.

Two other performing arts venues, both located in Jaffa, stand out as even more distinctive experiences. Na Laga’at (“Please Touch”) may be the only theater of its kind in the world – a company composed mostly of actors who are both deaf and blind (a few are only one or the other). Their original performance “Not By Bread Alone” uses theater to explore their personal inner world. Also on site is a remarkable culinary experience called “Blackout,” in which your senses of taste and smell are enhanced by eating your meal in a pitch black room, served by blind waiters.

Also in Jaffa, visit the Mayumana theater. In some ways similar to “Stomp,” Mayumana offers an enjoyable (if somewhat loud) theater experience incorporating audience participation and live music played by the actors. Mayumana has performed around the world, but Tel Aviv is its home – a home that is well worth visiting.

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Check out Part two of this post for Five more categories of fun ideas for Tel Aviv to learn about Tel Aviv’s excellent historical, culinary and shopping opportunities.

Akko Knights’ Halls

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When the Crusader knights traversed Europe nearly 1000 years ago, their target was always the land of Israel. Therefore, while they left their mark on many areas across the European continent, the concentration of Crusader-era sites throughout this small country are unparalleled. Fortresses and churches dot Israel’s landscape, and the interested tourist can even visit smaller Crusader-era homesteads.

However, no site in Israel, or perhaps in the entire world, can provide a better window onto life during Crusader times than the Old City of Akko. Akko (or Acre as it is sometimes written in English) may be the only place in the world where one can walk through the many divided sections of a full Crusader city. There, one can open a window onto the tension that divided the various segments of the population: different orders of holy knights, seafaring mercantile warriors from rival Italian city republics, and tens of churches.

A large portion of any visit to Akko’s old city should be spent in the Knights’ Halls. The largest area in the city to be uncovered, excavated and restored over the past 20 years, the Knights’ Halls now reveal 25,000 m2 of a complete Crusader knight fortress. 40 million dollars have been invested to allow tourists to wander through the various sections, learning about everyday life for these Medieval holy knights, visiting such rooms as their sleeping quarters, dining hall, infirmary, secret tunnels and even a latrine.

The fortress once belonged to the Order of the Knights of Saint John, better known as the Knights Hospitaller. As their name suggests, these knights handled hospitality and hospitals for the many Catholic pilgrims visiting the Holy Land at this time. As opposed to their contemporaries, the Knights Templar, who started as knights and only later became a holy order, the Hospitallers’s infirmary began first, and they were only later militarized into an order of knights.

The independent traveler can easily explore the halls using an audio guide (recorded in 10 different languages) that activates movies at various stations spread throughout the complex. Three walking tour routes wind their way through the site: a longer, a shorter and a wheelchair accessible one.

The newest change in the Knights’ Halls is the addition of various recreations and activities that bring the site to life. Within one of the largest halls, a series of stalls houses period-accurate artisans. You can see a blacksmith at work creating metal tools alongside a glass blower’s more delicate craft work. The perfume maker’s booth might suggest how these people were able to bear the smell in a place and time certainly not known for its hygiene. Other stops show how oil and the various colorful cloths at the time were made.

One of the other recent changes is the return of the refectory, or dining hall, to its original purpose. The hall now offers Crusader-style meals, but the place really comes alive at night, with music, actors and jousting knights in the courtyard. While this all may sound like a run-of-the-mill Renaissance Fair, the truth is that to experience this all in the authentic surroundings of a Crusader fortress raises the level of the activity beyond the mere entertaining to a more authentic recreation.

After visiting the Knights’ Halls, there are many other great sites to visit in Akko connected with the Crusaders. Among others, do not miss the secret tunnel of the Knights Templar, and the site of their former fortress as well.

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Christian Jerusalem–The Old City -Part 1

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Since the Christian segment of Jerusalem’s population is such a minority in comparison to Jews and Muslims, it is sometimes easy to overlook the fact that the city is Christendom’s holiest site. From Jesus’ early visits to the Temple as a child, to the miracles he performed later in life, Jerusalem is closely tied to Jesus’ biography as described in the Christian Bible. All before we even consider Jerusalem’s significance as the spot of the crucifixion, burial, resurrection and ascension of Jesus.

Thus, the city attracts well over a million Christian visitors each year to visit the numerous monumental churches, monasteries, Christian holy sites and Christian institutions. Of course, with so many different Christian denominations in the world, many significant spots have multiple churches that mark specific events in Jesus’ life, while some of the other major sites have shared custody between different denominations.

All of this can be confusing to the average tourist, so I plan to demystify Christian Jerusalem in a series of posts focusing on the different main areas of Christian interest in Jerusalem. In brief, it will highlight many of the most important Christian sites (though certainly not all of them) throughout the city.

In this first post, we concentrate exclusively on sites within the Old City walls. Look out for future posts which will address sites on the Mount of Olives, Mount Zion, Ein Karem, outside Damascus Gate, and other areas.

The Old City

The heart of Christian Jerusalem is obviously the Old City, the part of Jerusalem that existed during Jesus’ lifetime. As such, there are churches and chapels inside the Old City walls from nearly every branch of Christianity, including some from small, lesser-known denominations. Some of the most significant sites are :

Church of the Holy Sepulchre

The holiest church in the world to the majority of Christians, this church has shared custody among 6 different Christian sects: Greek Orthodox, Catholic, Armenian, Syriac, Coptic and Ethiopian Christians. One of the original churches built by St. Helena in the Fourth Century, this stately and complex structure houses many small chapels and shrines, including altars marking the spots of the crucifixion, the burial and subsequent resurrection.

Via Dolorosa

Primarily a Catholic route, the “Way of Suffering” has physical stops marking the 14 Stations of the Cross. Starting in the Muslim Quarter with a site dedicated to the trial of Jesus by Pilate, the Via Dolorosa winds its way through the Muslim and Christian Quarters to end within the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Though not an official station, the Ecce Homo arch is also found near the beginning of the route. It is traditionally associated with the spot where Pilate presents Jesus to the citizens of Jerusalem.

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St. Anne’s Church

One of the only remaining Crusader-era churches built in the Holy Land, St. Anne’s is situated in a large compound near the Lion’s Gate (also known as St. Stephen’s gate). Known for its excellent acoustics, the Catholic church is dedicated to Anne and Joachim, Mary’s parents. Also on site are the Bethesda Pools – associated with the miracle in which Jesus healed a lame man – as well as remains of earlier Byzantine and Crusader churches. (can one visit inside at all times? Maybe link back here to more details on a website for timings? – same goes for all of them)
Christ Church and the Church of the Redeemer
These are two of the more significant Protestant churches in the Old City. Christ Church, near the Jaffa Gate, was the first Protestant church in the Middle East. It was originally the seat of the shared Anglican and Lutheran Bishopric until the Lutherans built the Church of the Redeemer in the late 1800s. The Church of the Redeemer, near the Holy Sepulchre, also includes a tall bell tower with an amazing view of the city, as well as some relatively new archaeological excavations beneath the church itself.

Cathedral of St. James

The most important Armenian church in Jerusalem, St. James is also the seat of the Armenian Patriarchate of Jerusalem. Built nearly 900 years ago, the church is the major structure inside the walled compound of the Armenian Quarter and is dedicated both to James the Greater (greater or GREAT?_ (one of the Twelve Apostles) and James the Just (brother of Jesus).
Lesser Known Churches
There are tens of churches from many different Christian denominations. These include churches belonging to the Syriac, Greek Catholic (Melkite) and Armenian Catholic sects.
Maybe make a closing comment like ‘Jerusalem itself is filled with other sites of Christian interest, look out for further posts on other areas….” Or something – I find it ends a bit abruptly

Machane Yehuda

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No trip to Jerusalem is complete without a visit to the outdoor Machane Yehuda market. I’m sure you’ve heard a similar claim about many other sites, but Machane Yehuda is so closely tied to the culture and mythology of the city – even the soul of the city – that a statement like this is no exaggeration.

While there are many other markets and shopping areas spread throughout the city, Machane Yehuda is the most famous and popular, due to its authentic, old world charm, delicious fresh produce selection and newer multicultural culinary boutiques.

The market is most commonly referred to by locals simply as “the shuk,” but it is not to be confused with the many other shuks (outdoor markets) in the Muslim and Christian quarters of the Old City. While those offer many of their own charms, Machane Yehuda stands alone in its universal appeal. Some think of Machane Yehuda as the “Jewish shuk” and the others as Arab markets, but this is not really accurate. While Machane Yehuda is situated in the predominantly Jewish area of western Jerusalem, Arab and Jewish merchants side by side scream in unison how sweet their strawberries are or how low their prices.

Those who shop in the market are even more diverse. Elderly and young; Jew and Arab; ultra-Orthodox Jew, secular Jew and everything in between; foreign workers, tourists and students – all meander together through Machane Yehuda’s matrix of shop-lined alleys.

Check out our hotels close to the Market

How to experience the market?

Tourists who visit Machane Yehuda have a few options on how to experience the market. Some enjoy just wandering around, absorbing the atmosphere, taking pictures of the colorful produce and smelling the wealth of aromas. For those who want to explore the shuk on their own with a bit more depth, I have published an up-to-date map of every basta (stand) in Machane Yehuda.

Another option is to take a culinary tour in the market. Many guides (myself included) offer such tours, and on them you can gain a mix of the history and culture of the shuk, as well as learn about the various ethnic foods offered in Machane Yehuda’s many shops.

Many have debated whether there is a distinctive Jerusalemite cuisine. In my opinion, one of the things that makes our food special is the specific blend of tastes and origins. We are more of a melting pot city than even New York. In NYC, you can probably find at least one restaurant from every cuisine known to man. But they are spread out. If you want good Haitian food, you have to go to Flatbush. Senegalese food is best in West Harlem, while everyone knows that Astoria is the home of Greek cuisine.

But New York City holds a population of about the same size as the whole of Israel! In the much smaller Jerusalem, all our cultural groups live side by side. Inside of a 5-minute walk around Machane Yehuda market, you can find Central Asian foods from Georgia and Kurdistan, European offerings from England and France, Middle Eastern foods from Lebanon, Syria and the Arabian Peninsula, and North African dishes hailing from Morocco, Tunisia and Libya.

It is because of this mixing of cultures, that flavors of the cuisines have blended as well. Jerusalem Kugel, for example, is a unique dish that inserts the seasonings of Sephardic Jewry into a noodle pudding with Ashkenazic Jewish origins. Until recent decades, it was only here that you had Jews from all over the world meeting and marrying each other, leading to a blending of their food offerings.

Finally, tourists should think carefully about when to visit the shuk. Many past visitors will encourage first-timers to go on Friday afternoon. It is then that many Jews are out doing their pre-Shabbat shopping, and there is an intense energy of hustle and bustle. I, on the other hand, will recommend against a visit then. If you really want to experience all the shuk has to offer, the crush of the Friday throngs prevents you from doing so. A midweek visit much better allows you to explore the sights, sounds, smells and tastes that Machane Yehuda has to offer.

Alternatively, a nighttime visit opens an entirely different world. With our current mayor, Nir Barkat’s focus on youth culture, a number of new pubs have opened their doors in the market. Their tables spill out onto the alleys of the shuk itself, in front of the shuttered produce and fish stands, closed for the night. Many bars bring DJs or small live bands, and young revelers dance amid the sweet hookah smoke wafting through the streets.

Recommended hours to visit the market

This new nightlife in the market has led the restaurants to also keep their doors open later. What was once vacant at night, just seven or eight years ago, is now a hopping spot full of unique energy and life after dark.

Beit Guvrin-Maresha

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Israel’s newest addition to the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites is a national treasure, much better known to Israeli locals than to foreign tourists. Equidistant from both Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, Beit Guvrin-Maresha National Park features magnificent and interesting archaeology from the Biblical era through Crusader times.

Added in 2014 to UNESCO’s World Heritage List, the thousands of caves throughout the park’s 1250 acres of land served multiple purposes throughout history. The local bedrock is made up of two different kinds of limestone: a hard, thin crust known locally as nari, and a thicker layer beneath it of a soft, chalky stone. For millennia, locals chiseled small holes through the nari to reach the softer layer, from which they quarried building blocks which would later harden once exposed to the elements.

During the Hellenistic period, these caves entered secondary usage, encompassing the industry of the sprawling city of Maresha. Caves connected into subterranean systems beneath the city’s numerous villas started to be used as columbaria (dovecotes), industrial-size olive oil presses, private baths, water cisterns and storage areas. Pagan cultic sites also featured prominently in this “city beneath a city.”

Some caves from this period were also used for family burial tombs, the most impressive of which are a pair of painted caves that blend burial customs of Judeans, Egyptians and Greeks. Additionally, the names of those buried in these caves (the only of their kind ever found in Israel) show mixes of Greek, Idumean and Phoenician origins. All of this underscores how Maresha grew into a truly multicultural and cosmopolitan city during this time period.

The Bell Caves

Still, the highlight of a visit for many tourists are the magnificent, gargantuan “bell caves” located closer to the park entrance. Dug purely as stone quarries and never put into secondary usage, these magnificent and colorful caves were primarily created during the early Arab period, preceding the Crusader era here. Equally picturesque and impressive, these caves were even featured as a filming location in the 1988 movie Rambo III.

The national park’s name is long and unwieldy because the park actually incorporates two distinct sites. Maresha was the city from Biblical times (first mentioned in the book of Joshua, and later listed as fortified by Solomon’s son Rehoboam), changing cultures to primarily Idumean following the Babylonian exile of the Judeans (586 BCE), and reaching its peak as a mixed-population city during the 2nd Century BCE.

But following Maresha’s destruction in the late 2nd Century BCE, it was later replaced by a new city nearby during the early Roman period here (1st Century CE). Though less excavated than Maresha, Roman Beit Guvrin (later renamed Eleutheropolis – City of Free Men) features some other impressive remains. Among other things, Beit Guvrin features a full amphitheatre used for gladiatorial contests, complete with subterranean tunnels through which wild animals could be transported to the fighting floor. To date, it is the only one of its kind to have been excavated in Israel.

During the Crusader period, part of the Roman city was turned into a fortress, which included a large church (one third of which is still highly preserved). Closer to the Maresha section of the park, the apse of a separate Crusader church stands alone on a hilltop. Built on the remains of a Byzantine era church, it was referred to by the local Arabs as the ruins of “Sandahanna,” recalling its early name, The Church of St. Anne.

For the adventurous tourist who wants to do more than simply visit this unique national park, an organization called Archaeological Seminars offers a special opportunity participate in a genuine archaeological excavation in the park. The family-friendly “Dig for a Day” project brings groups of tourists into cave systems at Maresha to continue emptying them while also uncovering potsherds, glass, metal, animal bones, coins and other artifacts from the city’s heyday.

The program lasts 3 hours, and offers a window onto the archaeological process for participants who need no prior archaeological experience. It is one of the more memorable highlights of an Israel trip for all who participate in it.

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Baha’i Gardens Haifa

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There may be no single site in Israel — other than perhaps Jerusalem’s Western Wall-Temple Mount compound — that is as singularly linked to its city as Haifa’s Baha’i Gardens. These iconic gardens are viewed from much of the picturesque city, and when many tourists plan a trip to Haifa, they actually intend to visit nothing but this spot.

Climbing in terraces like a ladder, one kilometer up the northern slope of the Carmel Mountain, the gardens are not just a living work of art. They are also the very embodiment of many core principles of the religious beliefs of the Baha’i Faith.

Religious in the Carmel

The Carmel has always been tied to the concept of monotheism, due to its connections to the Biblical stories of Elijah the prophet. It has therefore become significant to Judaism, Christianity and Islam. Many other religions and cultures, such as the Druze, have also been attracted to this mountain. The Baha’i Faith is also monotheistic, and recognizes the prophets of all prior religions as holy people. Thus, this is the most logical location for their holy site as well.

The main beliefs of this faith include universality and equality. So the gardens display the harmony of nature and man, creating a site that encourages peaceful contemplation. Though the large site appears symmetrical at first glance, there are a number of asymmetrical elements that add to its beauty. These spots that break the symmetry balance the manmade splendor of the landscaping with the important historical and natural elements that were already at the site.

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For Baha’is, the focal point of the Haifa gardens is the Shrine of the Bab, holding the burial site of their prophet who announced the arrival of the religion’s founder in the 1840s. The shrine was built in 1909 and received its golden dome in 1953. (A nearly three-year renovation of the shrine was completed in 2011.) The many winding paths that surround the shrine are designed to allow the faithful to approach the shrine in a serene state of mind. Many branches to the paths echo the idea of individuality within people’s approaches to spirituality.

There are 19 terraces in the garden, with nine each above and below the central terrace with the shrine. These symbolize the 18 disciples who originally became followers of the Bab.

The Haifa gardens also hold the buildings of the Baha’i World Centre, including the World House of Justice, an international education center and the Baha’i religious archives. Another aspect of surrounding these with gardens is designed to insulate them from the noisy bustle of the modern city, doing so without the need to build unsightly walls.

Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008, the gardens are tended by throngs of volunteers from the Baha’i Faith. Of the approximately 5 million adherents to the religion worldwide, about 700 are in Israel as volunteers at any given time.

The Shrine of the Bab has been described as the diamond on the ring that is the gardens. Others note the spirituality of the harmonious visual transition from the sea, up the mountain and into the sky above.

Ecologically gardens

One of the more intriguing aspects of the magnificent gardens is their ecologically friendly landscaping method. They include approximately 450 species of plants, but most are of local origin, and many are drought resistant. Much of the water used for irrigation is desalinated on site, and a precision computer system closely monitors and controls water usage to minimize waste. The running water that so many visitors remember from their visits actually circulates in a closed system, so that the amount of water added to make up for evaporation is less than an average person uses in a day.

The inner gardens of the site are open daily from 9 AM to 12 noon, and the outer gardens from 9 AM to 5 PM. There are also guided tours offered daily, except on Wednesdays. For the schedule of tours in different languages, please visit this page on the Baha’i Gardens website. There are also wonderful views from the top, on Yefe Nof Street, and from the bottom in Haifa’s German Colony.

Visiting hours

Finally, for those who want a deeper look at the Baha’i Faith, their gardens and their holy sites, the other major site they maintain in Israel is on the other side of Haifa Bay, in the city of Akko. Though perhaps less impressive on the surface, there are also gorgeous landscaped gardens at that site, surrounding the burial site shrine of the religion’s founder, Baha’u’llah.